Bangkok to Chiang Mai with a journey time of 12 hours and 35 minutes aboard the high-quality sleeper Train No.9, a Chinese-built train introduced in 2016 by Thai Railways.

The Class

Train No.9 operates each evening and tickets are in hot demand from Thai domestic travellers and overseas visitors. First class sells out a few weeks before departure, so I settle for a second-class (bottom bunk) ticket instead. First class is a private enclosed cabin with washbasin, TV screens and larger beds, compared to just a privacy curtain in second class. Both classes share toilets with other passengers, which are modern and clean.

The new Bang Sue Grand Station terminal.Credit: Alamy

Carbon Emissions

20 kilograms per rail passenger compared to 66.20 kilograms an air passenger.

Boarding

My train departs from the sleek new Krung Thep Aphiwat Central Terminal, also known as Bang Sue Grand Station. From January 2023, Bang Sue replaced Bangkok (Hua Lamphong) Railway Station as the city’s central station, with all long-distance train services departing or arriving here. Boarding begins about 30 minutes before departure. I arrive a few hours early and buy snacks from the small but diverse food court selling hamburgers, barbecue pork buns, satay skewers, bubble tea and stir-fries.

I settle for a second-class (bottom bunk) ticket.Credit: iStock

The Seat

I arrive at my seat, one of four divided by a central aisle in an “open-plan” air-conditioned carriage. I have a bedside light with an international power socket and a netted holder beside the window to stash smaller items such as my phone. At about 7.30pm, an attendant converts the seats into top and bottom bunk beds, with pillow, linen and thin blanket provided. A curtain gives privacy, but carriage lights are kept on throughout the night. It’s best to pack a sleeping mask and ear plugs if you’re a light sleeper.

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Baggage

One medium-sized suitcase fits under my seat and there are overhead racks for storing smaller items.

Food + Drink

An attendant shows me a leaflet with dinner set options (no vegetarian or vegan choices) alongside photos and English captions, for about 190bht ($8). I opt for the chicken penang curry and jasmine rice, with sides of pineapple, two cold spring rolls and a “clear” soup with mystery meatballs. It’s better than expected, beating most airline food by a country mile. Unfortunately, meals also arrive with plenty of single-use and disposable plastic.

The Verdict

Thailand Railways Train No.9 sleeper saves you a night’s accommodation.Credit: iStock

Hurtling out of one city at sunset and arriving in a new one as it’s waking up is an underrated joy of travel. Train No.9 was cheaper than flying, efficient, eco-friendly and – most importantly – delivered a comfortable night’s sleep.

The thought of travelling by train in a foreign country makes my cells dance. I like trains, I enjoy travelling by rail. I wrote about Melbourne’s Puffing Billy steam train in 2016, it was a short ride, but sufficient to keep me smiling for days.

We managed to plan for another train ride this year in July, from Hua Hin to Bangkok. This was our second trip to Hua Hin, and we went with a purpose this time round. My partner and I really love Hua Hin for its calmness and slow-living.

So here is our little adventure on the 229km train ride from Hua Hin Railway Station to Hua Lamphong Railway Station (Bangkok).

We booked the train tickets online 3 weeks before our trip via https://www.thairailwayticket.com. We wanted Class 1 tickets but the option wasn’t available at the time of purchase, so we got ourselves the Special Express, Class 2 (air-con), “Train 40” tickets instead. Paid 412 Baht per pax, it definitely isn’t the cheapest way to get to Bangkok from Hua Hin; but how else can you get such scenic views? WordPress free version doesn’t allow me to post video, but I do have it on my Facebook, click here to watch it. We took public bus to and fro Bangkok-Hua Hin 2 years ago, journey from Bangkok to Hua Hin took us 8 hours, including time spent spearching for bus stop and waiting time. So we “pledged” not to opt that for that again.

This is the train we took at Hua Hin Railway Station. Train departed on time at 4.01 pm (GMT +7). There’s numerous comments online saying the trains never arrive on time, so I think we were lucky.3 cabins in totalThe train cabin is air-conditioned, so the fans were not turned on. There’s charging point near some seats, I see people are willing to share their charging points. Just ask politely, respect others.The interior of Class 2 air-con cabinMissing foot rest on the right, that that gives my long-leg partner ample leg space!Look! everyone gets a set of welcome snacks! We had chilled pineapple juice and green bean paste sweet pastry. The pastry tastes good, it’s not too sweet, so you can really smile eating it.I can’t open the dusty window since it’s a air-con cabin. I wonder where this old train is heading to…I found the best spot to take photo of what’s outside the train!Guess where these photographs are taken?See, window is open… clear view!Yes, I took the photographs from the train toilet. Perhaps the only opened window in the cabin. Just make sure you don’t camp in the toilet because of the good view.The toilet is surprisingly clean. I read that the staff clean their toilets quite frequently throughout the journey.We alighted at Hua Lamphong railway station just 10 minutes late at 7.55 pm (GMT +7), and we saw this sleeper train on the other track.And then this is the train we took. Ok… at least it brought us to Bangkok safely and timely.The huge Hua Lamphong Railway Station, platform area.Ticketing counters.

Hua Lamphong Railway Station is one of the few stations in Bangkok, but it is the only station which is link to the MRT station that brings you to the city. It is also the last service station of the train. People alight here to get to other cities of Thailand and even to Malaysia too.

Things to note, if you are keen on this journey:

1. If you are buying your tickets online, remember to print out your tickets. Train staff punch hole on the tickets after the train departs.
2. I feel some passengers wearing jackets, in case you’re not loving cold air, bring along a jacket.
3. Overhead storage space is quite minimal, so try to keep your baggage small.
4. No doubt people are willing to share the common charging points, do bring along a power bank, just in case the charging point is nowhere near you.
5. There’s no entertainment other than the wonderful views outside train, you may want to have your own music and earpiece. We brought along our MP4 player.
6. We didn’t explore the train, so I’m not sure if there’s a train café, but food is allowed at your seat, so we bought chips along.
7. Stay awake, the views are fantastic!

You might have heard lots of negative reviews about Thailand train rides, but frankly, it wasn’t that bad to us. Train arrived and departed on time, seats are rather clean, toilets are sparkling clean. Staff are friendly too.

Is Hua Hin worth a visit?

“Hua Hin is the perfect place to escape the heat of the Bangkok. With miles of unspoiled beaches, five golf resorts and a wide variety of restaurants and night markets, Hua Hin is a beautiful destination that's ideal for those seeking a beach resort with a relaxed vibe.

How long is the train journey from Bangkok to Hua Hin?

For Bangkok to Hua Hin train, the fastest train is the first train to Hua Hin; train

43, with estimated duration 3 hours 20 minutes. The longest trip duration goes up to 4 hours 20 minutes for train

173.

How long to spend in Hua Hin?

Three days gives you time to experience its landmarks and food markets and head out to explore mangrove forests, royal palaces, jungle waterfalls, and even Bangkok itself. Read on for tips on spending 72 hours in this holiday hotspot. Blessed with 4 miles (7 kilometers) of sand, Hua Hin is a magnet for beach lovers.

How much is a taxi from Bangkok to Hua Hin?

RATES FOR PRIVATE TRANSFER FROM BANGKOK TO HUA HIN They are always clean, tidy, in perfect technical condition and driven by experienced chauffeurs. Cost of the taxi to Hua Hin starts from 2000 baht for premium sedan, 2400 baht for 4wd SUV and up to 3000 baht for a 8 seater business class minibus.